Gmcmhphotos.com

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: End view of new fixture

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Front view of new fixture

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Side view of new fixture

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Prototype lighted, ignore the thumbnuts, the new version does not use them

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: If your old connector looks like this one from my \'73 Glacier or worse, you need to relace it!

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Rusty Nasty handle on my \'73 Glacier 260

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Remove the inside door handle assy

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Remove the 4 nuts holding the handle assy in place

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: This top one is a bit tough, will need a small wrench

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Carefully remove the inside lock rod

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Pull the clip off of the lockset and remove the cylinder assy, your plate will fall off if you have a \'73. I riveted mine to the door with some butyl tape sealant behind it so it no longer leaks

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Comparison of the Kenworth part # K294-194R \"Cab door outside RH\" door handle assy, Note, the toothbrush pointing to the lever on the old handle. You will need to either weld this to the new handle or move the whole assembly ( Much easier)

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Carefully drill out the rivets from the backside and use the old inside assy on the new handle assy. Replace rivets 2 from the outside and two from the inside. Use waterproof Stainless Steel (Closed end) 3/16\" rivets. You will need to trim off the lower left rivet as viewed from the inside so it does not interfere with the inside door handle actuator rod.

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Made a new gasket out of closed cell foam ( Before trimming)

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Finished job after reassembly

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Found a really nifty new connector with a grab handle on sale @ Camping World

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Here are the tools you will need to do the job. Add a good OHM meter as well

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Here is the inside of the connector

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: pins assembled to the cable, make sure you don\'t have any loose strands to short beween pins.

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Pins pressed back in and ready to put the cover on. Make sure all of the screws are tight and no loose strands are present.

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Viola! A nice new connector with a grab handle

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Now to test the safety ground (VERY IMPORTANT, COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE!!!) Connect the meter leads between the door striker plate and the Round pin

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: The meter should read 0 OHM\'s or very close to it

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Next check the Neutral to body (Striker plate) with the meter, It should read a very high resistance.

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Now Hot to the body (Striker Plate)

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: The other hot to the body (Striker Plate)

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: The meter should read a very high resistance for both Hot to body readings. THere, now you are done and ready to plug it in!

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Here is the box from the 50A plug. It was on sale @ Camping World, the make a 30A version with a handle as well

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Here are the instructions. Pretty straight forward. I used the strain relief shown in fig. 4

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: After the project was over, I did a little \"CSI\" post mortem on the old plug.... As you can see the pins are quite corroded and the first photo showed the cable pulling out of the connector

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Inside the old plug was another story. Both Hot cables had relatively good connections. The neutral was borderline loose and the ground was very loose and corroded as you can see. Good timing on the changeout

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Original Airbag

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: A look at the other side, note the plastic cones

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: View of completed project

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: I put the manifold and shutoffs so that the air gauge is visible at the skirt

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: shot of the plumbing on the passenger side

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: Shot from the rear wheel of the plumbing

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:00:00 -0500

by: bobhendrickson

Description: The air gauge is hardly noticable from this position