Electric Fuel Pump and Electric Choke

The Electric Choke conversion needs to have a 12 Volt power source that is only live while the engine is running. This is how I control voltage to the choke heater (With Electric Fuel Pump) Without a fuel pump, leave the relay out and do not connect the start circuit. Connect "IGN On" power to "I" terminal and connect "CHOKE HEATER" wire to "P" terminal. (Red Wiring) There are a few other ways some owners are doing this, however, in my experience resolving choke issues for "Hot Rodders", some of these ways have inherent problems. 1 - Tying into a circuit that is only on when the ignition switch is on. --- While this seems to mostly work for many, it is surprizing how many times the ignition is on for a period of time before starting the engine. During that time the choke is opening and the result is there is insufficient choke to start the engine. 2- Tying into Alternator Output Line. --- This only works with our coaches because the output line is attached to the isolation diodes between the house and the chassis batteries. (Most cars would not allow this to work because the alternator output is hooked direct to battery positive.) There are 2 problems with this option. A- Any Problem with the alternator output (Quite Common) and the choke begins to close, thereby killing the engine too. B- with the output of the alternator ahead of the isolation diodes ,the voltage of the alternator output spikes and swings high enough to burn the choke heating elements. (short heater life).

Here are some switch numbers to help you find an appropriate one.  Airtex - OS75 || Standard - PS64 || Mr Gasget - 7872 || Holley - 12-810 || Carter - A68301 || Carquest ECC53-33829.